Jeff Bayley
12-04-2007, 11:53 PM
I have a Leviton 32120-001 on my Royal Converstion which seems to be bad. I suspect there are other similar components (different brands maybe) on other converstions. You can see one at http://www.electriciansupplies.com/index.cfm/S/226/N/10249/P/46116/Leviton_32120-001_--_1__Each.htm
I believe it is a surge protector and is installed right above (and wired into) the automatic transfer switch (which is fairly new). I don't know how common these are on any of your other buses. It has two green lights and one red light. The two green lights take turns coming on depending on whether your using shore power or gen power. The red light blinks and makes an audible alarm (currently) and the information on the front cover clearly states that if it's doing that the component is bad and needs to be replaced. Fairly simple I guess except I want to make sure It's not something else in the transfer box because this part is about $700. The automatic transfer switch was only $500 and looks like there is a not more that goes into it than this part. Guess looks are deceiving.
What it is causing is no power to enter the inverters / chargers. I've got input power indicated on the respective analog meters mounted next to the inverter remotes (Trace 2,500's) and the inverters are working but the led light that indicates (good power in) doesn't light up. I've got the batteries on a battery charger to keep them up and the food from going bad.
It may just be a conicidence but this device (which I suspect is bad according to the cover of the device) just went bad a day after I refilled my batteries with water. I allowed them to get too low. They took a cup and a half in each of the 6 cells. They are 4D's, I have 8 of them and they were new in April of this year but this is the first time I put water in them (Duh). I don't think one has much to do with the other........however......I had the coach plugged in the night before this happened with only one of the two Trace chargers going and it was on 8 amp float is all all night. I did this because I was plugged into a standard house outlet in front of a friends house. Could that have imbalanced this surge protector somehow ? There certainly was no "surge" as the inverter was powered down to a 15 amp shore cord and I had it on 8 amp maximum charge. Since I brought that up, I've always been skeptical that this "power down" feature where you set the remote to tell it to limit you to a small shore power is not working. I put it on 10 or 15 amps in the past and the breaker for that outlet trips over and over. That is why I turned the charger down to an 8 amp maximum charge. If the power down for shore power worked, I should be able to to leave the charger on 25 amps and the shore power adjustment should over ride that setting.
I regress. Any ideas ? I believe the tech that diagnosed my "bad" automatic transfer switch was mis-diagnosed. I had another problem instead. This has happened to me OFTEN by techs. Always in the last place you look type of thing.
This brain trust is 50 times better than any tech; hence the post.
Help or simply confirm that the red light and the "this component is bad" as a result of the red (and audible) alarm is in fact probably the case. One final clue. I remember hearing the alarm a day or two before it actually stopped letting power into the bus. Maybe it was on it's way out but still limping by. ????
I believe it is a surge protector and is installed right above (and wired into) the automatic transfer switch (which is fairly new). I don't know how common these are on any of your other buses. It has two green lights and one red light. The two green lights take turns coming on depending on whether your using shore power or gen power. The red light blinks and makes an audible alarm (currently) and the information on the front cover clearly states that if it's doing that the component is bad and needs to be replaced. Fairly simple I guess except I want to make sure It's not something else in the transfer box because this part is about $700. The automatic transfer switch was only $500 and looks like there is a not more that goes into it than this part. Guess looks are deceiving.
What it is causing is no power to enter the inverters / chargers. I've got input power indicated on the respective analog meters mounted next to the inverter remotes (Trace 2,500's) and the inverters are working but the led light that indicates (good power in) doesn't light up. I've got the batteries on a battery charger to keep them up and the food from going bad.
It may just be a conicidence but this device (which I suspect is bad according to the cover of the device) just went bad a day after I refilled my batteries with water. I allowed them to get too low. They took a cup and a half in each of the 6 cells. They are 4D's, I have 8 of them and they were new in April of this year but this is the first time I put water in them (Duh). I don't think one has much to do with the other........however......I had the coach plugged in the night before this happened with only one of the two Trace chargers going and it was on 8 amp float is all all night. I did this because I was plugged into a standard house outlet in front of a friends house. Could that have imbalanced this surge protector somehow ? There certainly was no "surge" as the inverter was powered down to a 15 amp shore cord and I had it on 8 amp maximum charge. Since I brought that up, I've always been skeptical that this "power down" feature where you set the remote to tell it to limit you to a small shore power is not working. I put it on 10 or 15 amps in the past and the breaker for that outlet trips over and over. That is why I turned the charger down to an 8 amp maximum charge. If the power down for shore power worked, I should be able to to leave the charger on 25 amps and the shore power adjustment should over ride that setting.
I regress. Any ideas ? I believe the tech that diagnosed my "bad" automatic transfer switch was mis-diagnosed. I had another problem instead. This has happened to me OFTEN by techs. Always in the last place you look type of thing.
This brain trust is 50 times better than any tech; hence the post.
Help or simply confirm that the red light and the "this component is bad" as a result of the red (and audible) alarm is in fact probably the case. One final clue. I remember hearing the alarm a day or two before it actually stopped letting power into the bus. Maybe it was on it's way out but still limping by. ????