Lug Nuts--Right or Left-Hand Thread

[dale farley]

I've had my tag wheel off a couple times before, and I don't remember it being left-hand threads? I just removed my front wheel, and after about 5 minutes of attempting to turn the nuts the wrong way, I realized it was left-hand vice right-hand. Are my lug nuts on all my wheels left-hand threads?

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Dale,

We can keep this answer between us. I won't tell Paulette. The tip off is on the end of the threaded lugs there is an L or an R stamped in them.

The left (driver's) side is left hand threads and the right side is right hand threads.

Tell her the time you were spending was a scientific study of the torque values for the coach lug nuts.

BTW, there are two types of Prevost guys....those that have tried turning the lug nuts the wrong way, and those that lied and said they haven't.

[dale farley]

Jon,

I had never noticed the "L" and "R" before. Of course, the tag wheel that I had removed before was the right one, so that explains why I didn't notice a difference at that time.

I received my shocks yesterday and decided the installation would probably be easier if I removed the wheels. I tried Lew's suggestion of using an 8' bar to break the nuts, but that didn't work. I actually took the handle out of my floor jack and used it as an extension to the handle that goes through my lug wrench. I bent the solid steel bar that I had just bought to go through the lug wrench. Of course, I now understand that it may have worked if I had been turning it the right way; or more appropiately, the "left" way. I guess I can blame this on Lew; he should have told me to turn the lug wrench the right way.

After deciding that I was just too weak to do the job manually, I went to Harbor Freight this morning and bought the twin hammer 1" air wrench for $119. Their in-store price was $159, but they matched the internet price since I took the ad I printed from the website. I also bought a 3-way adapter to connect two or three 3/8' lines in and one 1/2" line out.

My thought process was that if I needed about 14 cfm at 90 lbs with a 1/2" supply line, I could hook two of my smaller compressors in parallel and do the job. They are 6.2 cfm at 90 lbs. I did that, and got no results, so I was just about ready to return the air wrench or buy a heavy duty compressor. I hooked up the 3rd compressor (a small one 2.2 cmf at 90lbs) and still got no results. That's when I decided to try to turn the nuts to the right to see if that would break them loose a little. I was amazed when they actually came off. I am assuming I can now do the job with the two compressors if I go the right way. So for less than $200, I have the 1" air wrench, the adapter, and the set of 1" impact sockets that make removing the lugs pretty simple.

Thanks for the enlightenment about the "R" and "L". Paulette should be happy since she was trying to convince me to go ahead and spend the $1000+ to get another compressor. Now if I can get her to hold the monster of air wrench for me, everything should be fine.

[dalej]

Dale, I'm proud of you! You just made your life a lot better.

Just by doing this one job, you will have your new tools paid for.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

You need to get a little dirt and grease on that new gun:rolleyes:

It doesn't look right:eek:

[dale farley]

Dale, Jon, Anyone,

I assume that I am not supposed to be putting any lubricant on the inside of the bushing on the shocks. Is that correct?

[dale farley]

Joe,

I doubt that it will take me long to grease/scratch the new wrench. I tried it a few minutes ago to see if the rear lugs were going to come off using the two small compressors, and it zipped them off with no problems. Much easier than the manual method.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Way to go, you old horseman you. I'm proud of you. Don't forget NO Neversieze on threads, unless you know the reduced torque specification.

I will be watching to read how you are going to measure the tightening torque to learn for my own future benefit!

Did that beauty of a wrench come with the lifetime guarantee that most of their tools have?

I don't think lubing the shock bushings would be necessary. I will be interested in what others have to say. wondering did you ask because they were very tight in the mounting stud/bolt?

Home Depot has some good values on air compressors, as does Tractor Supply.
I like your ingenious way, if you can live with the setup each time.

JIM:p

[dale farley]

Jim,

So far, my setup is working fine. I am using the two compressors for the 1" wrench, and I have a small pancake compressor to run my 1/2" wrench to remove the shocks. This way, I don't have to do any disconnecting of lines or movement of compressors. I have really just gotten started, so it will be a while before I finish. I am pulling my drums to check my brakes and polishing my hub caps while I have the nuts off, so it is going rather slowly.

Actually, I didn't have any trouble removing the old shocks or sliding the new ones on. I am using a small pry bar to get them off, and it worked fine on the two front ones. The impact sockets came with the Lifetime Warranty. The wrench did not. They wanted to sell me a 2-year warranty on the wrench for about $59, but I didn't get it.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Dale, an additional thought on the topic. Maybe after the nuts are properly tightened and turned the correct dir. for removal you will only need the two compressors as you originally thought?

Here is a link to an article that anyone reading your posts might find interesting and pertinent to your task. http://www.prevost-stuff.com/whatsupwheels.htm ("http://www.prevost-stuff.com/whatsupwheels.htm")

I encourage you to wear a dust mask when working on the brakes. Don't blow them with air. (Asbestos Dust = Carcinogen)

:) JIM

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Dale,

No lube on the shock bushings, and no grease oil or never seez on the wheel lugs ever. All torque values are for clean dry threads.

Mike Kerley is reading what you spent and what you have done and he is mentally comparing his $900 Prevost bill with your cost of less than half, plus you got an impact wrench out of the deal.

What's next? Brakes, Air bags? Brake chambers? A co-pilot seat in the rear for Paulette?

[rfoster]

Roadrunner Dale: I am impressed. Are you sure you are not from Tennessee? That setup would qualify you to live in East Tn.

I had to replace some of my rear shock bushings and Prevost shipped me the one piece. Unlike Dale of Nebraska, they didn't offer me the more exspensive two piece, they just stereo type me by location and sent the cheaper ones. I had to lubricate them with armorall and use a small 6"vice to press the suckers into the shock.

Good going. You might be riding one the 85 footers next time we see ya.

[dale farley]

Jim,

The two compressors worked great. I even turned the wrench down one notch. I got six of the eight shsocks on this evening, so I still have one hard one and one easy one to go. The one just in front of the drive axle is a little difficult. The rubber guard and both rear wheels have to be removed to get to that shock. Hopefully, I will finish in the morning. So far, I have 5 1/2 hrs of working time involved. While under the bus, I have spotted two hoses that were starting to rub, so I have been able to take care of those before they turned into serious problems. Thanks for the link.

[dale farley]

Jon, Paulette said I looked like a "nutty professor" when I came in tonight. I seemed to have had a bad hair day even though I tried to keep my cap on. I had plenty of grease and dirt on me. Hopefully, it won't take too long to finish the other 2 shocks tomorrow. I didn't use any lubricant on the bushings except soapy water to get them pressed in the shocks.

Roger, actually I am from Tennessee. I grew up in middle and West Tennessee and graduated from high school in Whitwell ( a few miles from Chatanooga. I have been in Florida since 1965 because that was whre Paulette lived at the time. We have a small place in Whittier, NC which is almost in Tennnesse. Must be that hillbilly in me that makes me do all this "stuff."

[dalej]

Dale, I'm proud of you. I just love reading these do it yourself post. I and others know exactly what your going thru.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I'm thinking that POG members should be getting tool purchase discounts. It gets to be an obsession after a while.

In the bad old days I could carry all my tools in one hand, and despite the lack of tools I was still able to pull a transmission or change the brake calipers. Now instead of reading Playboy I peruse the Craftsman, Northern, and Griot's Garage catalogs.

This is so bad I just bought a new bigger tool chest for the bus so I could bring more tools with me on the road. I need help.

[dalej]

Jon, its ok so far....but if you buy a semi trailer like Kevin's to follow your bus around, then we will have to talk.

[dale farley]

As a follow up to our discussion a few weeks ago about lug nuts, I offer the following information. Jim Chaloupka had asked how I was going to ensure I had the torque right on my lug nuts once I replaced the wheels after installing all new shocks?

I used the Harbor Freight double hammer 1" air wrench with my small compressor and that seemed to work great. The wrench has 3 settings on it, and I used the middle one to tighten the lugs. Unfortunatley, I had no idea if the torque was right, so I ended up purchasing an X-12 wrench. I actually bought the 568 wrench to begin with, and had problems getting it to hold while I tried turning the lugs. It kept slipping off the adjacent lug nut. I called the manufacturer and was referred to the owner (Bob Mull) who returned my call in a few minutes. After explaining that I was having some problems, he said I would have been better off with the Original wrench vice the 568 if I planned to use it on my Prevost. He immediately had another wrench sent to me without taking a credit card or any form of payment. He told me when I received the "Original" model, if it worked out, just send the 568 back to him. That's what I call "Excellent Customer Service."

The Original X-12 works great, and what I discovered was in almost every case, my lug nuts were over-tight. At least I know the 1" air wrench has plenty of torque to remove and tighten the wheels on my bus even with an inexpensive ($200) Sears air compressor. And now, with the X-12, I know the torque is right.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

That's good to know Dale. Thanks for remembering to reply. Now I know the proper tool to use.

;)

[mike kerley]

Dale, Great job. You should give yourself an attaboy! If you have any strength left.

Jon, I'll never have room for all those tools and equipment while living aboard, so I'll just keep sending those dollars to Prevost.

Plus, I battle everything from transmitters to file servers all day, 6 and 7 days a week. Sometimes its just good to watch!!! That may change someday.