Norgren venting opening leak

[Fratto]

Good Morning and Happy 2021~

The lower norgren in the drivers bay is leaking air out of the bottom discharge or vent opening. This valve appears to be serving accessory things like:
Optional kneeling
Door lock
Drivers seat
Air horns
Etc.

I assume that this is a valve failure not a control issue? Anything I need to know before I replace my first one?

Also, since these accessories have their own control, what is the valve doing? Why not just feed all of these things from a manifold? Or is the kneeling option being used as part of the HWH leveling system?

Thanks!

[PrevostNewbie]

Are you saying the lower valve (bottom of stack) in the bank of 5? Those are the Level low system. Or is it one of the stand alone valves?

[Fratto]

It is the valve circled in red. The leaking discharge port has the red line pointing to it.

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17206&stc=1

[PrevostNewbie]

On my Bus that is the Air Control and Exhaust Valve. The port you are pointing to is the air Exhaust port for Level Low. If i want to dump the air or lower the bus, the air exhausts there. Air can escape from that port if either the valve is shifted or partially shifted, or leaking. The air supply for that valve comes from the valve above it. if the dump switch is on or you are lowering the bus. This is a good exercise, we can learn together.

[Fratto]

Thanks Mike. I will confirm that this valve is operating like yours in the next couple of days. In the mean time, my valve is discharging even with the level low in drive. You can hear it when you turn off the diesel and it continues until the auxiliary air pressure goes to 0.

[PrevostNewbie]

If it's a slow air leak the spool is shifted partially or the seals are leaking. I just aired up my bus and soaped the ports and no leaks. next i asked someone to push the down button on the Prevost Level low and air came rushing out of that port (port 3) . When you dump air does it rush out of that port like it should? The air supply for that valve is the one above it. It's a spring return single pilot valve. When dumping air, the spool is in the spring shifted position. When you want to manually raise the bus up, the air pilot signal shifts the spool over. This pilot signal comes from the top valve and whtever position you are in at Prevost level low. The prevost level low selector switch will select one of the norgrens in the bank depending on which position. Top in the bank is Air Control & Exhaust, second down is Front Control, Third down, Middle is Drive, 4th down is Rear Right control, Last Valve is Rear left Control.

[Joe Camper]

Mark it's been my experience that when you have air seeping out the exhaust port on that lowest 2-position norgren in the steering Bay with the key off the problem is not with that particular valve. what's happening is your suspension in one of the three corners is leaking down and the valve at that particular corner of the suspension is what's bad and it's exhausting out that exhaust port in the steering Bay. When you hit the down button in level low for any of the three corners that's the port that exhausts the air so it's like you're on the down button when you're not if that makes any sense.

Are you sure the front suspension isn't losing air? I asked about the front because if it were the left or right rear norgren leaking out through the steering Bay it would be obvious you'd see the lean. You don't see a lean when you have a front leak and it's bleeding out in the steering Bay. It's going to be the 2 position norgren right above it or 1 of the 2, three position norgren's in the left or right rear that's what's gone bad.

DISCLAMER. The possibility exists I could be wrong. I've repaired this same situation a half dozen times as described but thay never stop posting new failures on a regular schedule. The way u say your aux air pressure drops is interesting. U would need that control coil on the manifold AND that lower norgren both to be bad togeather suppose it could happen. What else?? Maybe somthin

With all pressures up turn the key on but do not start. Dump all your suspension all 3 corners. Turn the key back off. Bet the leak stops and with aux air and brake tank air still present. If it stops then start up again and just air the front suspension up and turn it off again and listen. Repeat process for all 3 corners till u recreate the leak to see what corners causing the leak. Try that.

[PrevostNewbie]

Joe, do you think it's possible for the accessory air coming in on port 1 is leaking out port 3? That seems to be the only way accessory air can exit port 3 while in drive mode and exit port 1. I am trying to wrap my head around how air can come from port 1 on the front ride height valve and pass thru the air control and exhaust valve. In drive mode air pressure is on port 14 which allows air to flow into port 3 and out of port 2 to the ride height valve.
Air Control and Exhaust Valve (Lower Valve)
Port 1 Accessory Supply
Port 2 open when air on port 12
Port 3 open when air is not on port 12

Front 5 way 3 position air control Valve (Upper Valve)
Port 1 pressure Supplied from Port 2 valve below
Port 3 from front ride height valve
Port 5 plugged
Port 14 from Drive Norgren Prevost switch in Drive mode
Port 12 from front Control Norgren
Port 4 Plugged
Port 2 to air bags

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17207&stc=1

[Joe Camper]

I think what I said. You're two buses are a generation apart the upper valve on your bus is a 3 position On Marks bus the two valves on the back wall are both 2 position valves. Anything beyond the explanation long-winded one I tried to keep it as short as possible we'll just do nothing but confuse everybody even more most everyone anyway.

[Fratto]

Joe, I dumped the air from all three corners and the bottom norgren continued to discharge through the vent opening. The primary and secondary brake air pressure remained steady, the accessory air went down to 0 and the air discharged stopped.

A couple more notes:

1) When dumping air, the discharge is way more than the leak we are discussing.

2) If you push the level low up button to raise either of the three corners the air discharge will quit. As soon as you release the up button, the leak will resume until accessory air pressure is 0.

I have never had one of these valves apart. Can they fail with a slight leak between ports 1 and 3? When it is leaking, it has a whistle not a whoosh which makes me wonder if it is a small internal failure allowing the accessory air to bypass to the discharge opening.

[PrevostNewbie]

Mark, do you have a screenshot of the schematic of that area like I posted for mine?

[Fratto]

This is pretty close. The accessory manifold shown as one is really two but that should not affect this.

[PrevostNewbie]

Maybe the clue here is when you raise the bus up it doesn't leak. With the key on or off, that bottom valve is spring loaded to one side closing off the exhaust port. when you try to raise the bus pilot pressure from the top valve on the Norgren stack pushes the spool on that bottom valve and compresses the spring, closing that exhaust port. If you remove the 2 airlines circled in red you will be able to see if air is coming back thru either of those lines like Joe is recommending. If there is no air coming back from either of those 2 lines, then it is a valve leak from port 1 to port 3. Worth a shot?
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17219&stc=1

[Joe Camper]

The spool can leak 8 different ways it may or may not also be leaking there that tells nothing. Even though there is a leak evident out the exhaust port it may or may not be coming out that top port at the same time it all depends on what o-ring Rings leaking on that spool and how bad it's leaking

Mark. U have placed a valve failure in front if me I've nere had without it being the valve on a suspension corner creating it.

First

If u close off the black 1/4 in signal line on the offender I'm quite confident the leak will stop that tells me the norgren itself is no good but if if that valve is normally in the resting position only requiring a signal to open and exhaust then there's should be no pressure present in the line to begin with and the top solenoid on the air manifold is also bad.

Either way just a new 2 position spool will stop that leak but if you have a slight bit of air coming out of the norgren air manifold into the signal line on that two position spool there's also a slight problem leak at the solenoid the top one on the norgren air manifold that's going bad too. that will be masked now because the air leak that's beginning on that component is just Dead ending at the norgren that's now air tight.

And if you just replace top coil and valve on the air manifold that well stop the leak at the bottom norgren but the bottom norgren is still bad the leak will still be there but only when you're exhausting and you'll never hear it or know it I would guess that either of those two components will effectivly stop the leak but both of them are bad.

[Fratto]

Thanks Joe and Mike

Replacing the bottom norgren seems straight forward. Joe, I understand that you prefer to use new compression fittings on the new valves and go to compressions right?
By the way, are the push to fit removal pliers worth it?

But the top valve on the stack, how does it come off of the manifold? Any youtube or other videos out there on this?

[Fratto]

Also, all of the existing fittings have sealant on them ... what kind do you recommend for the new fittings?

[Gil_J]

There's too many possibilities. It's easy enough to troubleshoot with a couple of connectors and shop air. Easy first. Disconnect and cap the control line going to the valve. Toggle the control valve with shop air. If it works right, the control supply source is the problem. Next, add a valve to the input. See if it still leaks after aired up and the valve turned off.

[Joe Camper]

Gill, we know the valve is leaking. We have eliminated the possibility it is a suspension leak feeding back because it continued to leak all suspension emptied out. The only other air supplied is to the signal port and it is coming from the top coil pac on the air manifold. If air is coming from there without being on the button in the cockpit it is also bad. Both components r bad and replacing either one will stop the leak he will prob want to replace both.

Mark that particular push in fitting is not critical the air tightness of anything the only time air is coming down through that tube is when you're on the down button on level low so you can replace it with a better one but it's really not necessary if you do you'll have to shorten up the 3/8 plastic tube about a half inch or the bottom valve won't line up with its holes again.

As for the air manifold and coils. Remove the eclip on the stem and pull the coil off the valve you shouldn't have to undo the n-terminal with the wiring to do it it'll just pull aside. Then there's two very small screws theres actually 4 look closely at them two of the four opposing screws release is it from the manifold and when you separate it if you look at the bottom of the valve there's two o rings there make sure either of those two O-rings didn't stay stuck on the manifold and make sure when you put the new valve in that you don't dislodge those orings going in.

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17227

Only stuff I will use. Never use on the compression end of the fitting only put on the pipe threads. Wire wheel the pipe thread end of the fitting to eliminate any burr that could plow out aluminium thread in the norgren and have the shaving end up on the spool before putting the pipe dope.

[Fratto]

Awesome. Thanks Joe and others for the help. Getting my head around the air logic is worse than my first circuits class ... of course I dont remember any of the either!

[Joe Camper]

17228

I would say u could not prove what was leaking first. Ither leak alone would be undetected because If fit were only the norgren it would only leak when u were on the down button and the other air exhausting was hiding it. That's the only time pressure is present on the spool end.

And If only the coil controlled valve on the manifold were leaking and the norgren air tight like it should be that leak would just dead end at the signal supply port on the norgren. All that would happen is it would pressurize the line between the 2 when it otherwise should not be.

Does that compute?

[Joe Camper]

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17231

It's a plastic seat where the o ring parks.



How's this explosion above. Note the two different sets of two screws that go through the valve the bass the two black ones are what's holding it to the manifold the two tapered head screws hold the body of the valve together itself.

17230


There's multiple leak points here that show up in numerous ways. I think yours is leaking from this O ring and seat when it's resting that's what's sealing it.

17232

Flipping it to show the bottom the little o-ring the inner one on the bottom when it leaks goofy things start happening stuff becomes Haywire that are unexplainable these are the kind of leaks that's schematics don't help you with when are starts going backwards feeding back through.

The norgren's themselves depending on how they leak makes things Haywire weird too, so do brake relays.

The outer o-ring on the bottom when that starts leaking you'll just hear it right there at the Norgren Air manifold it's probably just loose. So mark 1 c-clip and 2 of the 4 screws is all u loosen, the 2 tapered head screws dont mess with them. Unless u want to take the old one apart.

I think the cost of two of the coil and valve assemblies will buy you the whole manifold with all five of them so price at both ways you guys are always asking about spares and like to have them these are good spares to have in a Prevost motorhome

[Fratto]

Perfect! I ordered the norgren and the top valve. By the way the parts guys call the top valve a rebuild kit. Will pick the parts up tomorrow and put them in either this weekend or next week. Did not think to price the whole manifold. will do that next time. I am sure that if one of these are going back the others are not far behind.

The norgren was $86 I think and the rebuild kit with out the coil was $40. The coil is another $30.

Love the parts breakdown ... on a wicker table now less :-) You rock.

[Joe Camper]

17236

Mark I admittedly do not pass up anything that catches my eye at the curb. I picked this set off the curb in front of a house in Key Largo year before last.

17235

I play the part when im here. In THE ZONE. Dec Jan and Feb that's gardening season. The overnight low tonight will be 70 how u doin?

17233

17234

Pulled this from the trash coupla days ago. Is there something to rub or brush on dry wicker to protect it??

[Joe Camper]

17263

Here is a 2 position norgren as it is plumbed on every ifs front end they've ever put out. It's the top one in the steering Bay on the back wall. The top 90 degree fitting is the blue line with the yellow tape on it that actually goes to the front suspension. It sits just above another to position norgren below it. There's a few different things you can do with anyone norgren configuration wise depend on what the result is you're looking for this particular norgren has one of the lower ports plugged and they're just using it for on and off they even want to open or close One path of air so they put a plug.

17264

17265

Can you imagine. I think the only thing that saved it because all the controls were still working correctly the norgren's weren't what was leaking on the front end suspension getting it to go down that was also caused Again by nipple nuts truck service getting it wrong the first time but I need to stay on message here. The only thing that saved that valve was the fact that the cavity above the plug the valve was configured and that cavity was below the spool so it was almost creating a natural trap and all the s*** was gathering on top of the plug might have even saved itself I don't know.

17266


Continuing up the path of air the blue line that comes off of that top norgren in the steering Bay it feeds two more 2-position norgren either side of the ride height valve above the axle. Those three norgren's and the two airbags and the two air tanks those are all and only components that can leak causing a front end to go down with the key off. Look at what those two norgren look like when I took them off.

17267

Here is where we get to include cooky in the story. I went on to the two air tanks for the airbags and for i f s they are tucked up real high up above the sway bar in the middle you know I profess to remove those drains for plugs well here's another good reason to do that. not only are the drains problems with leaking all the time and you really don't need them look what sits on top of the drains if you don't take the plugs out every now and then and look. It gets stranger what's cooky is there was some rust on the driver side tank but I believe that tank is not the cause because the volume of stuff ten times more came out just the one tank on the passenger side. I think over time the rust migrated over into the driver's tank because that all is connected and as you go up and down through that with the air through those valves that are will intermingle. I blew out the driver side some dust and residue came out I blew out the passenger side rust storm, probably got numerous times much more out just blown up that I couldn't save as as in the picture . I made a gadget to shoot up in there and turn around and direct the air and knocked on a tank with a hammer and blew it out both ways and did the best I could we are going to replace that one tank but schedules don't allow it right now so we just made sure that it was clean enough to run air through those new norgans till we get back to do it right. They live on board and I need to get south of Key Largo again it's kind of chilly here in the morning in West Palm. I suspect I can only guess after production that thing set a pallet out in the rain somewhere I have no freaking clue how that one tank on the one side would be so corroded inside and the other side's nothing.

That wasn't why the front end was going down those valves all were still holding in that condition. Nipple nuts Truck Repair didn't tighten down the street elbow and the brass adapter in the 90-degree brass fitting coming out of the top of the airbags both left and right they were bubbling vigorously. She is a happy lass now.

This vantari was put together smart it's an 04 H3 and it doesn't need any air for the slides and it uses electric pocket doors too no air bed lift or automatic pneumatic belly scratcher that pops out of the corner of the bedroom wall so the only thing that you need auxiliary air for is for the airbags for the generator and the Bellows for the belts for the engine when you go to start. The gentleman who has it w
had me actually going through the correct reasons and usage for the auxiliary compressor why it's there and he's had the bus almost 2 years now he never even uses it. You can eliminate the possibility that bad air from an auxiliary compressor created all the rust it never gets used.

You can wash wicker furniture with mild soapy water and then let it dry for a good long time then it can be oiled and again allowed to be dried for a good long time and then you can paint it with clear.

sorry for the long winded post this is what happens when you guys make me wait around for parts.

[Fratto]

When I started looking at the tubing layout and what it takes to remove the norgrens, I decided to just replace both the top and bottom norgrens as well as the top valve on the level low manifold. Also replaced all of the associated fittings while I was at it.

That solved the discharge air leak. However this work apparently disturbed a couple of fittings to the left that are fed from the manifold with the check valve. So I replaced the check valves, brass 4 way and all of those fittings as well.

No more leaks in this compartment .... at least today. I took the bottom norgren apart but did not really see anything glaring. Probably just normal wear.

Installing the top level low valve did take some patience. The two o-rings were not really wanting to stay put ... they eventually gave in and saw it my way.

The bottom norgen had some dark oil residue on the incoming bottom port. Nothing outgoing and nothing in the upper norgren. There was a trace of some in the brass 4 way. Joe, could this be from the auxiliary air compressor that you are not fond of using?

Thanks again for walking me through this.

[PrevostNewbie]

I am about to tackle the air side of my bus in the next 3-4 weeks. I have new airbags, shocks, Wheel seals, Tag reverse logic kit, brake chambers, ride height valves, all the norgrens, tubing, fittings, 8 new tires and on and on. I figure it's best to put the bus up on stands and get into the chassis related stuff all at once.

[Joe Camper]

Mark, What did u do? Buy a rebuild kit instead of replacing it? And what about the top control solonoid and valve on the norgren air manifold what did u do with that? If nothing pull the 1/4 in line between the 2 key off, bet air will be seeping out still. The new sealed norgren has the leak stopped now but the top control valve on the manifold still is bad if u did not replace it.

[Joe Camper]

Mike, if u can do it somewhere u can get things wet so when it's all blown apart u can power wash and paint and detail the chassis u will want to.

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I just got doing the steer axle on my 32 yr old pete. Purdy ain't it. She's a 1990.

[PrevostNewbie]

Wow, that looks nice. I do plan to clean and repaint when i start that portion of the bus. When i did my oil pan and ran the engine for a while you could smell that warm fresh paint, smelled like cookies in the oven.

[Fratto]

Joe, I replaced both norgrens and the top control valve with new.

[Joe Camper]

Ok. When I saw yours blown apart and u mentioned the o rings. U were talking about the 2 little orings on the manifold. Ten fer.

If anyone is interested in old removed norgrens for whatever reason I have some u can have. As many as u want.

[PrevostNewbie]

My New Norgren 5 stack just arrived. Once I have all the air components in my possession I can start the swap outs.
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17299&stc=1

[PrevostNewbie]

I also received my new door strap. This broke when i was stuck on the side of the 40 Fwy back in September. Prevost Used Rivets, I am going to use stainless screws and nuts.

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17300&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17301&stc=1

[Ck2hans]

Mike:
If you don't mind me asking: what did the 5 port cost you?
Chuck

[PrevostNewbie]

You mean the 5 Stack in the Picture? That 5 valve bank was $261.14 direct from Norgren/IMI. I think I am going to replace the connectors also, some of mine have corrosion.

[georgiapeachinc]

This sounds like the problem I am having. Will replacing the O rings solve the problem?

[PrevostNewbie]

you can replace the 5 stack no problem, it's not that tough, It might be better to confirm your issue though first?

[Fratto]

Agreed on confirming the issue. If you can confirm and isolate the bad valve on the 5 stack, the O-rings will come with the replacement valve and it takes no time to put in the valve on the stack.

[georgiapeachinc]

Replacing the whole stack or just the one that is leaking is not a problem for me. I will get the part# and contact Norgen as you mentioned. Thanks guys.

[Fratto]

I ordered mine from Prevost

[georgiapeachinc]

Thanks Mark. That was going to be my first call to Prevost.

[georgiapeachinc]

I got the entire valve manifold from Prevost and replaced it yesterday. My thinking is when one goes bad more will follow. This solved the problem and it now works better than ever. I was a little concerned finding oil inside these valves which means I may have an air compressor going bad. I'm going to the shop for a yearly inspection and will have them check that along with any evidence of oil in the system. I don't see any oil build up from the air dryer port, which is one of the indicators. Last time air tanks were drained there was nothing and that was maybe 2000 miles ago.

[georgiapeachinc]

Up date on this issue. After replacing the bank of valves yesterday and cycling through the low level and road sequence with perfect action. I set it into low level and quit for the day, everything was fine. Another issue arose. Started up the coach and it did the same thing before I replaced the valves. Rear comes up and the front did not. got the front to rise in manual mode and then everything went hay wire. Switched to low level and the bus came down only on the right side. Cannot lower the left side in manual. After shutting the bus of, ignition off the valve next to the bank of five valves continually looses air and the front squats all the way to the ground. I suspect the valve for the left rear is not working. That would be the set of valves in the left side looking into the compartment. I'm out of ideas on this. Thoughts anyone?

[Fratto]

Can you send a picture of the compartment and the valve that you are talking about?

[georgiapeachinc]

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18383&stc=1http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=18384&stc=1
This first picture shows the bank of 5 valves I replaced To the left of those valves are two valves , one on top that you can't see. The valve below is now leaking when the key is off and draws all the air out of the tank except for the main coach tanks. I removed that valve took it apart and found an O ring that was shot. There are 2 O rings in there. I have several O ring kits and nothing matches. On top of that there is an inner O ring that only God can replace, its a special deal. So I'm sure this is part of the problem but I think it goes farther than that. In the second picture are the valves that control the left and right rear height. The left one ( Left side of the coach, drivers side) does not dump in manual. So I suspect this may also be a problem.
I'm at the point where I am going to order those two valves and replace them. All the switches work and there is power going to everything.

I read back to the beginning of this article with all of Joe's input. This sounds exactly what he was describing. Glad this happened in my garage and not out on the highway!!

Your thoughts are much appreciated. I have been in the trucking business for 40 years and fixed a boat load of air problems but this stuff is hard to wrap your head around.

[PrevostNewbie]

Chris, I would stop just replacing everything and isolate the problem. The Bus air logic is fairly simple if you sit down and study it. Do you have a pneumatic schematic for your bus build?

[georgiapeachinc]

Too late for replacing parts. The lower valve on the back wall which is the 3 way, 2 position valve has a bad O ring. Unfortunately, the two O rings inside I can't match up with my extensive selection of O rings. furthermore, one of the O rings is special. I have called Norgren, Prevost and Liberty and these valves are popular and backordered. Norgren estimates 10 weeks. At this point the coach sits huddled in my garage.

[Fratto]

Chris, I sent you a private message. Call me if you have time.

Have a great weekend.

[Gil_J]

In case you didn't know, Liberty modifies the Prevost suspension air system. They add a second air control valve to the front that you pictured. It runs parallel to the one Prevost installed servicing the 2 5-port, 3-way Norgren valves between the drive axle. You'll likely find a capped hose on one of the 5-port, 3-way valves that would have interconnected the supply line between these two valves. If one of the forward pair of valves was bad and couldn't be replaced, you could use just one of them. Just tee the 2 lines headed to the drive axle. When you can get a new valve, just put it back to the way Liberty did it.

[georgiapeachinc]

Thanks Gil. Fortunately I found that particular valve and it is on its way. I dug deep to find the specs on the other valve and Prevost or the OEM wont give me the specs. I found another valve that is the same but before I bought it I would need to be sure it would work. I sent you a link in your email. Thanks!

[georgiapeachinc]

After looking high and low for a new valve and technical information regarding the lower valve on the firewall (K910026) I called the company in Canada that distributes the valve for Prevost. They have that valve back ordered with no idea when Norgren will ship any and they don't have any technical data on the valve. I determined that this valve may work https://www.norgren.com/us/en/detail/k41ea00ks1ka2 but it has a slightly different internal part. I'm not sure if I want to experiment with replacing it but at this point I only have one other choice. Radwell International can repair the valve. They offer no guarantee at $387.85. that includes a rush of $100.00 to have it back in 10 days. I'm on a waiting list to get the part from Prevost in Sommerville, NJ. Liberty Coach is also on a waiting list. I wonder how many people have a coach sitting useless waiting for this part!

[Fratto]

Wow! Try these people from a random Firefox search. Also note that on this site they say that the valve is discontinued?
https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/NORGREN/NORGREN/K910026/

I may have missed it, but have you talked to Norgren to see if they have a work around or an alternate part?

[PrevostNewbie]

What are your symptoms that lead you towards this valve being bad?

[georgiapeachinc]

I spoke to Radwell as I mentioned they can rebuild it but they do not have that valve in stock. To answer mikes question. The lower valve that I need was leaking from the port. The other valve that I ordered for the left rear (K910060) that I received has the exact same valve body with a different end on it that looks like it can be swapped out if it has no seal damage. I will take some pictures and post them here later. I'm going to tackle the job today and see where I wind up.

[georgiapeachinc]

I replaced the Norgren valve in the front (K910060) for the left rear leveling. The valve bodies are the same as the lower valve (K910026) on the back wall, this is the valve that is unavailable for 2 months.. I was hoping that the spool would be the same in both valve bodies but it is not. My theory was if it was the same I would get another K910060 and swap the ends and be good to go. Unfortunately they are different. Reluctantly I shipped the valve off to Radwell International, LLC in Willingboro, NJ for repair. They have repaired this valve before. At $387.00 for a rush turn around in 4 days, twice the cost of a new one from Prevost. I will follow up on this when I get the repaired valve back and installed.

[Hoffman]

Another option in the future is to simply rebuilt the valve yourself. Relatively simple. Take pictures are you go. Wipe out the interior with brake-clean or similar product. Either replace the O-rings or lube them with some vasaline prior to reassembly. I've saved several Norgrens from the trash heap using this technique.

[georgiapeachinc]

Joe,
Thanks for the advice. I have changed o rings on many things but the barrel on this valve has 2 o rings that look more like a button with a hole in the middle, nearly impossible to remove without damage; which I discovered. I looked low and high for a replacement kit. Found something that might have worked on Amazon but they never shipped it. This particular barrel that floats inside the manifold looks as though it comes apart to replace the o rings. Without proper equipment I have no idea how you could stretch that o ring over the barrel without damaging it. Good news is Radwell contacted me and said they can repair the valve after looking at it. This company has 3-D printers and a serious machine shop so I assume they could probably rebuild the valve from the ground up if they had to. Additionally they give a 1 year warranty on the repair.
I wish it was simply replacing a few o rings from the multiple kits I have but no such luck! If you have any details on replacing o rings on this particular valve I would be curious!

[Hoffman]

I am not an o-ring expert in any definition. If it's not an easy 'just lube it', or 'just replace it', then i'm out of my skill bucket fast.
I'm been amazed at the number of times i've gotten old things to work by just cleaning and adding some lubrication. But as you state, this doesn't always work.
Keep us posted in progress.

[georgiapeachinc]

Radwell contacted me and said the valve is repairable and should have it back in a week. There are going to be a lot of people going the rebuild route if I get my coach off the floor! I can't guess how many coaches are waiting for this valve!

[georgiapeachinc]

Radwell International repaired and shipped my valve back in a week. I installed it along with the new valve above the repaired one and all is working perfectly. I also located the source of the oil that was going through the valves that destroyed all of the o-rings. The auxiliary air compressor was the culprit. I disconnected the main line from the compressor and shot it full of brake cleaner and let it run for 1/2 hour disconnected. It ran dry with no oil so I buttoned everything up. The oil is a mystery. The auxiliary air compressor was replaced before I got the coach so this sis something I need to investigate.

[Fratto]

That is great news. A week is a super turn around time.